The Himalayas are the world’s highest mountain chain, and also the youngest. Stretching east to west across many states, these metaphorised sentinels have seen the development of different cultures and religions within their deep valleys and glacial pools. Here are the sources of some of the country’s most important rivers – the Ganga and the Yamuna – as well as a variety of religions, other than Hinduism. Linked with the tales of myth and reality are epics of adventure. The sages, it is believed, have always come to the Himalayas to meditate, and they could hardly have chosen better, for it has been, for the aeons of its existence, the home of the gods too. Here the Pandavas lived and traveled, and here today, people come from around the world. Like the sages, they come to seek sanctuary from an increasingly populated and polluted world. For the mountains here are still serene, their forests undisturbed, the air pure, the waters of the streams clean. Such a place is Auli (2,500 – 3,050 m) in the Garhawal Himalayas of Uttar Pradesh. Till a few years ago, Auli was a mere point on the map, for it is surrounded by places of pilgrimage and beauty that have always been sought by pilgrims and by travelers. During the seventies, the slopes around Auli, with their magnificent, rugged terrain, and steep glides, were chosen as a training ground. While their rigours may have been arduous, the panorama around them must have provided solace for the soul too. For some of the most exciting Himalayan peaks seen from any one spot – the inspiring Nanda Devi, Mana Parbat, Dronagiri, Beethartoli, Nilkanth, Hathi Parbat, Ghori Parbat…none of them under 6,500 m high, and some just under 8,000 m.
Auli was slated for better things – its coniferous and oak forests were slated to become the playground for the world. And with good reason too, for when surveyed by experts from France and Austria, it was found that the slopes compared favourably with those in Europe. All that was required was to get the infrastructure in place, and the rest would look after itself.
With no rush that would lead to the degeneration of the slopes, the state government flagged off the skiing events as recently as 1986. Since then, the potential for the sport has grown, and Auli has become one of few winter sports destinations in the Himalayas.
To attract attention, UP Tourism began by creating skiing festivals at Auli. These now include the national championships staged by the Winter Games Federation of India. Technical assistance is provided by various government bodies to ensure the success of the games.
To cater to visitors, Auli has now become a self-sufficient township, connected with other important centers in the state. Arrange of accommodation and dining facilities are offered. Unlike most ski-resorts in the West, since the intention lies in popularizing the sport, the tariff structure and scale of accommodation has been carefully monitored so that domestic visitors can enjoy the full benefit of the skiing slopes without having to spend substantially. While skiing is the chief attraction at Auli, it has been easily adapted for families with children who may be too young to try on their skills yet. They can enjoy the cable car rides and rope lifts, or spend the day outdoors building snowmen, or having snowball fights! The day so spent, the evenings bring the excitement of warmth around fires, with a shared camaraderie. And the promise – should you wake early – of seeing the sun rise over the high snow peaks, tinging them a rosy pink that soon dissolves to a molten gold, before turning a dazzling white. It is a spectacle of light that is soon lost to the mists that swirl in the skies above – but that fleeting glimpse of the mountains as they change the colours of their mantles in a fine one, indeed. It is a wonderful way to begin the day too. For the rest, the slopes beckon. And when you have had your fill of skiing at Auli, or are looking for a break in between, here are some destinations you may want to visit.
HENKUND SAHIB: According to the Sri Bachiter Natak (Shri Dasam Granth Saheb), it is believed that Guru Gobind Singh the 10th Guru of the Sikh faith meditated on the banks of this lake in one his earlier birth. Earlier in this century, this place was identified as Hemkund, and today it has become pilgrimage centre at a height of 4,500 m. The Sikh shrine consecrated by the banks of the lake is visited by followers of all religious sects. Close by, there is a Lakshman temple that marks the spot where Lord Ram’s brother had performed penance.
BADRINATH: berry (badri) forests once carpeted the slopes between the twin mountain ranges of Nar and Narayan. One of the four sacred pilgrimages of this Himalayan region that every Hindu is enjoined to visit (the other three are Kedarnath, Yamunotri and Gangotri – all in the UP Himalayas), Badrinath, at 3,133 m, was described in the ancient scriptures as the holiest among the four pilgrimages: ‘There are many sacred spots of pilgrimage in the heavens, earth and the nether world, but there has been none equal to Badri, nor shall there be.’
An 8th century temple marks the spot where Adi Guru Shankaracharya is believed to have meditated at this ancient holy spot. For it was here that the river Ganga descended from Shiva’s matted locks, as Alaknanda. Its sanctity intact, the pilgrimage centers abounds in a number of myths. Among its important centers are the Badrinath temple built at a height of 3,133 m. A recent and modern temple with painted doorways and icons, the shrine has been rebuilt at the very spot it occupied in Vedic times. Renovation has been necessary to contain the damage to its structure as a result of landslides and avalanches. (The temple is closed from December-April). Other spots are Tapt Kund, the holy thermal springs; the Narad Kund, from where the idol of Badrinath was discovered; Sheshnetra, the boulder that carries an impression of an eye of the legendary snake from Hindu mythology, the Sheshnag; Charanpaduka, a meadow where, according to belief, one may see Vishnu’s footprints; and Neelkanth, a pyramidical peak that towers over Badrinath.
MANA: Ved Vyas wrote the Mahabharat epic in a rock cave close to this Indo-Mongolian village, the last settlement before entering Tibet. Also here is a bridge across the mythical Saraswati, and a 122 m high cascade forming the Vasundhara Falls.
ALAKPURI: This is the source of the river Alaknanda, one of the most important tributaries of the Ganga, emerging from a snout in the Bhagirath-Kharak and Satopanth glaciers.
SATOPANTH LAKE: This triangular lake is associated with the Hindu triumvirate (Lord Brahma, Vishnu & Shiva) said to reside in one corner each of its pristine waters. Located at an elevation of 4,402 m, it required experienced trekkers to make it up the arduous trek. Those less experienced will require guides.
TAPOVAN: In a contrast to the hustle-bustle of the city, Tapovan 16 kms. from Joshimath is a peaceful place known for its hot springs which are believed t possess healing powers. Accommodation is available here.
CHAMOLI: A tiny gateway, this little town is well-known for its salubrious environs and scenic beauty. The mountains around Chamoli are unspoilt.
VALLEY OF FLOWERS: A profusion of wildflowers – iris, violets, roses, primulas, anemones, potentillas – mark this valley, celebrated all over the world for its lush beauty. A narrow river flows through the valley, now declared a national part. Reached by an easy bridle-path from Govindghat, visitors are no longer allowed to camp within the valley. Should they choose to spend the night, they have to camp outside the valley.
Though it is associated with legends dating it to the time of the legendary battle between Ram and Ravana described in the Ramayana, the Valley of Flowers was introduced to the world in 1937 by an English botanist, Frank S. Smith. Another botanist, Margaret Legge, who died while working in the valley, has a memorial raised in her honour by her sister, located inside the valley. In the winter months, the valley remains snow-bound.
JOSHIMATH: The name Joshimath has been derived from “Jyotirmath”. Adi Guru Shankaracharya attained enlightenment in the 18th century while meditating under a tree and established a Math (hermitage centre) here. The temples of Narshing and Nav Durga are located here. When the temple of Badrinath closes for the winter months, the idol is carried down to Joshimath. Just below Joshimath, a popular point for trekkers in the summer months, the rivers Alaknanda and Dhauliganga meet. From Joshimath, a cable car transports visitors directly to Auli.
PANCH PRAYAG: The tributaries of the Ganga meet at different points in the Himalayas, on the route to Auli. Five of these points from holy pilgrimages, called the Panch Prayag or five confluences. Visitors may like to stop at these points either on the way to Auli, or when descending from there. Deoprayag is the confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Bhagirathi, and has temples on the river banks dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. Rudraprayag defines the confluence of the rivers Alaknanda and Mandakani and has temples dedicated to Rudranath (a manifestation of Shiva) and Chamunda Devi. Temples dedicated to Uma (Parvati) and Karna mark the spot where the Pindar meets the Alaknanda at Karnaprayag. At Nandprayag, the Nandakini joins the Alaknanda, and there is a temple to Gopalji. And at Vishnuprayag, the DHAULIGANGA MEETS THE Alaknanda ata spot where Vishnu is worshipped in a temple following a ritual dip in the holy pond named Vishnu Kund in his honour.
WINTER SPORTS AT AULI
Ever since its transition as a winter playground, a number of facilities have been added by the State Tourism Department to make skiing easier at Auli. These consist of the following:
• An imported, state-of-the-art ski-lift system with its length of 500m., which is the longest in the country.
• An 800 m long chair-lift that connects the lower slopes with the upper slopes, making it easy for skiiers to zip up in moments. Once there, they can ski down rapidly, while others walk down the snow-paths at leisure.
• Two snow-beaters have been imported for beating the snow for skiing.
• The slopes have been dressed and improved for hosting skiing festivals and competitions at national levels with international standards.
• Joshimath has been linked with Auli with a ropeway, spanning a distance of 4.15 km. Said to be the longest zig-zag ropeway in Asia, it consists of 10 towers of self-supporting steel structures, complete with saddles and shoes. Safety factors include remote-controlled hydraulic and pneumatic braking systems and sophisticated electronic circuitry to minimize human errors. Just the cable car ride is enough to justify a trip to this winter resort, with the snow-covered valleys below giving on to views of the Himalayas on all sides.
COURSES IN SKIING
While experience skiiers are likely to enjoy the slopes of Auli for the excitement it offers of unexplored terrain and the dramatic beauty of the surrounding Himalayas, for those who would like to learn how to ski, a number of facilities are available. These include training courses of seven and 14 days respectively run by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam and the Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering.
Qualified skiing instructors run these classes, and have been trained in modern skiing techniques. The seven-day courses are specially designed for beginners. All courses are run from January through March. Up to 25 trainees are accepted in the seven-day course, and 15 in the 14-day course. The 14-day skiing course entitles you to a certificate from the institute. The National Championships organized by the Winter Games Federation of India are held here generally in February and March.
A READY-RECKENOR FOR FACILITIES
Auli is located in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttar Pradesh, and has ample provisions to look after the comfort of winter visitors to the resort.
Getting There
By Air: Those in a hurry can take a flight to Jolly Grant airport (linked with services from Delhi) which is 17 km from Rishikesh and 26 km from Dehradun. The remaining distance of 270 km to Auli is best covered by car.
By rail: The nearest railheads are Rishikesh (253 km), Haridwar (276 km)and Dehra Dun (295 km). Regular train services connect these points with Delhi on Shatabdi and other express services.
By Road: Auli can be reached by road, through bus services, or taxis hired from any of the entry points. Deluxe coaches can also be hired for groups. Regular state transport buses link the entry points with Joshimath, which is 13 km from Auli. Joshimath is at a distance of 253 km from Rishikesh, 276 km from Haridwar, 295 km from Dehra Dun, and 500 km from Delhi.
By Cable-car: From Joshimath, Auli is reached fastest by a ropeway that spans 4.15 km.
ACCOMMODATION
Over the years, a number of accommodation opportunities have become available at Auli. These include a 110-bed complex run by the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam that includes dormitories, double rooms as well as deluxe cottages.
Separately, there are alpine cottages and located along the slopes, with supply of hot water and heating facilities, while outside, the snow falls softly, laying a new carpet for you to trample over.
At Joshimath, there are more hotels, including those with more inbuilt facilities and services for greater luxury. The cable-car makes stays at Joshimath possible, since it connects rapidly with Auli.
ACCOMMODATION AT JOSHIMATH
UP Tourist Rest House (New) Ph: 22226, UP Tourism Rest House (Old) Ph : 22118, Dronagiri Hotel Ph : 22221, Kamet Lodge Ph : 22155, Neelkanth Hotel Ph : 22131, Jyoti Lodge Ph : 22123, Shailja Guest House Ph : 22208, Kedar Holyhome Hotel Ph : 22246, Vivek Tourist Lodge Ph : 22215, Nanda Devi Hotel Ph : 22170, Udai Palace Hotel Ph : 22004, Shri Ram Hotel Ph: 22332, Naged Lodge Ph: 26118, Madhuban Hotel Ph : 22218, Badris Tourist Lodge Ph : 22548, Marwari Hotel Ph : 22251, Thakur Lodge Ph : 22257, Shivlok Hotel Ph : 22052, Shail Shikhar Hotel Ph : 22201, Chandani Guest House Ph : 22219, Deepika Guest House Ph : 22339, Snow-dust Hotel Ph : 22284, Kailash Paying Guest House Ph : 22339, Gunjan Guest House Ph : 22217, Him Sarovar Hotel Ph : 22296, Subhash Lodge, Hathi Parvat Hotel, Anand Hotel, Deepshikha Hotel, Badri Kedar Mandir Samiti Ph : 22083, Kaali Kamli Dharamshala, Birla Daram Shala, Gurudwara Ph : 22121
EQUIPPING YOURSELF
Carry enough warm, dry clothing to make sure that you have a charge for when you get wet. Take extra socks and warm cloths. Your clothing should include windproof jackets, pullovers, caps, mufflers, snow boots or gumboots, glove, and thermal underwear along with comfortable trousers and shirts. In addition, you are advised to carry dark glasses to avoid snow-blindness, and a torch to ensure light against sudden breakdowns. The temperature plunges below 0 degree C, down to –3 degree C and on occasions upto – 7 degree C.
In the summers, it is cool rather than cold. Carry a cardigan, and an umbrella to protect you against sudden showers.
Skiing equipments are available on hire, but if you would like to bring your own, there is no restriction of its use on the slopes.
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